Goat Town (511 E. 5th St., 212-687-3641) is a new American bistro tucked quietly in the East Village fold — and its locally focused menu makes my mouth water. There doesn't seem to be much pomp and circumstance surrounding the fare, just really classic dishes done the way I always hope they turn out when I cook at home . . . but never do.

Nick Morgenstern, owner of Brooklyn's The General Greene, and his pal Chef Joel Hough, most recently of Cookshop, opened this oddly monikered restaurant last weekend to delightful reviews. Here's the lowdown: "Goat's Town" was the Anglo-Saxon word for "gotham," a term then coined by author Washington Irving to describe our beloved city. Hopefully, that clears up any questions surrounding name choice — it certainly did for me. From a quick glance at the farm-to-table focused menu, I spotted a handful of items now on my "need to try" list: veal meatballs, grilled tri-tip steak with fork smashed potatoes, fish and chips, and braised pork shoulder. In addition to a solid food lineup, the decor is what I'd describe as city-barn cool. Imagine rustic features against cold white tiled benches, country tin ceilings, and bread pan lighting — did I mention Morgenstern and Hough have created a backyard garden for growing in-house herbs and spices? Yeah, I can't wait to grab dinner here this weekend. See you there?